MM: 3D-Printed Universal Paint Adaptor for Nail Polish Shaker

This is the start of a new series: I am going to publish very short videos on Mondays. Not every Monday, but every now and then. In this episode:

3D printed Adaptor for a nail polish shaker to shake modelling acrylic paint, airbrush colors and whatever might need shaking.

The two parts of the adapter are being connected with the springs that are included with the nail polish shaker. The adapter is then being inserted into the ring on the device, because of it’s “wings” it won’t fall out. Happy shhaking!

The STL file is here for donwnloading.

This is the nail polish shaker on,

DIY Salamander / Beefer / Overhead broiler for 35,-€

For the hefty price tag of at least 800 Euros you can buy exotic gas grills like the O F B – Over Fired Boiler – from Otte Wilde or the Beefer. Both of them produce an immense heat that comes only from the top. In the professional kitchen, this is known as a salamander or an overhead broiler. Now I’m sure that these are great products, but they are mostly for steaks, and you need to cook quite a lot of them to justify the expense. But  if you look closely at the beefer, you find a heating element that looks very similar to the one in this gas heater that you can buy for less than 35,- Euros. Maybe we can grill with that just as good? Let’s find out!

Such a gas heater is available for less than 35 euros:

And quite conveniently, there’s even a grill grid included: The protective grate in front of it. We need to get our food as close to the heating element as possible. The edge of the heater is in the way, so it has to go. By the way, if you want to do this, please do it at your own risk, I don’t take over any liability. But we only fiddling with combustible gas under high pressure, what could possibly go wrong?

The grill grid is removed. Now I’m building a foundation out of some stones that were lying around here. Fits. Let’s give it a try. I got myself some beef steaks.

After about a minute, the steak is turned around.

I’ve been experimenting with the distance. Because the grill grate is not adjustable, I simply put some spacers under the heater.

Down below, the first steak is heated to the right core temperature.

It takes some practise, and a proper casing might be helpful, but all in all I am pretty happy with the result.

Better Than a Ring Light – DIY Logo Light

A ring light is so 2017! Everyone has it, and it makes you look like a husky. How about a logo light?

First I need my logo on a piece of plywood. I simply printed it out on 6 sheets of paper. But marking would have worked in the same way. How big? This depends on the desired distance, but it can’t hurt to make it really big. My logo is approx. 60x 80 cm in size, and in the opening credits I am only one arm’s length away from it. I stick my sheets together and add the missing bits of the contour on the margins. Then I cut out the logo. I stick it to the plywood board with a glue stick.

Now an LED strip is used. When you buy an led strip for photography or video purposes, look for a high CRI value (color rendering index). It should be 80 or above.
If you are going to use it alongside other lighting equipment, I would suggest that you match the color temperature. I use 4000k for all my lights.

Compare these LED-Strips:*****

There are special bendable LED strips, but normal strips can also be guided around curves if you fold them a little.

The LED strips can be cut at the marks – with particularly beautiful scissors. I try to cover the logo as evenly as possible with the LED strips. The direction doesn’t matter.

There are soldering points on the LED strips at regular intervals. All strips are connected in parallel. It doesn’t matter where, as long as it’s plus to plus and minus to minus. To connect several pieces with one cable, I like to cut only the insulation. Then pull the insulation apart a little so that the bare copper is exposed and I can solder it on. Maybe I should have been more careful about the polarity though.

After everything is connected, I secure the LED strips with hot glue, I don’t really trust the adhesive layer of the strip.

Now I need cardboard strips with a width of approx. 3.5mm. It doesn’t really matter, but it helps when they are straight and all the same width. I just took a strip of wood as a measure.

Now may be a good time to saw out the hole through which the camera is supposed to look later.

Now I glue the cardboard strips along the whole contour of the logo.

So that the individual LEDs are no longer visible, we need a diffuser. I use tracing paper. This is glued to the edge of the cardboard contours with hot glue.

Now I build a simple bracket.

The connecting plate is screwed between camera and tripod quick mount plate.

And the plywood with the logo is glued on with plenty of hot glue. I can’t screw it on, I should have done that before gluing on the tracing paper.

The result works just as a ring light, only that the camera picks up the reflection of the logo instead of a boring old ring. Try it out!

DIY Camera Trap – How to control the shutter of a Panasonic Lumix with Arduino and HC-SR501 Motion Detector

Wouldn’t it be great to have a camera that starts recording when something moves? If you look for “wildlife camera” or “camera trap” you can buy cameras that do just that. But first, they are quite expensive, and second, the image quality leaves a lot to be desired. But most cameras have a connection for a remote release. Can’t we combine that with a motion sensor?

I ordered some of these HC-SR501* infrared or PIR motion detectors from Aliexpress, a link is in the description. The sensitivity and the duration of the switching time can be set on the two potentiometers on the side, for example for a light that is to remain switched on for a certain time. That doesn’t help us, because we need a start impulse at the beginning and a stop impulse at the end of the recording. We need an Arduino for that. Now the remote shutter release on my Panasonic Lumix works measuring the resistance of whatever is connected to the socket.

Schematic of Panasonic Lumix Remote Shutter Release Pinout, Will suit G3, G4, Gh4, Gh3, Gh5, G7, G70
Schematic of Panasonic Lumix Remote Shutter Release Pinout, Will suit G3, G4, Gh4, Gh3, Gh5, G7, G70

I don’t use the Focus button here. So I use an optocoupler instead of the shutter push button on the remote. This is a double one, a single one would have done it, but I still had this one. Continue reading DIY Camera Trap – How to control the shutter of a Panasonic Lumix with Arduino and HC-SR501 Motion Detector

3 Super Simple 3D Prints for YouTubers – A Sketchup Tutorial for beginners

When I tell people that I have a 3D printer, many of them ask something like „what on earth could you possibly want to print with that?“. The best answer would be: a lot! I have only recently startet this YouTube channel. To help me with that, I have already printed a number of things, three of which I would like to show you now.

Here are the files:

This is the 3D-printer that I use:

CTC 3D printer at*
or at*
or at*

SD Card box

3d printed SD Card Box

If you work a lot with cameras, you usually also have lots of SD cards. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a little box where you can put them in? I’ll show you how I design such things with Sketchup, but of course you can also download the files on

First I need to know the dimensions of the SD card. Then I open the CAD program Sketchup. The free version will do. It is important that the unit of the model is set to millimeters.

First I draw a rectangle. I click into one corner and draw the rectangle. However, I do not click for the other corner, but I simply enter the desired edge lengths in millimeters and confirm this with the return key.

Continue reading 3 Super Simple 3D Prints for YouTubers – A Sketchup Tutorial for beginners

3D Printed Roller Blind?

A 3D printed roller blinds – is that possible? Well, yeah – sort of.

I had the Fluxing logo printed on a tarp to hang it in front of my window as a roller blind. Unfortunately you can’t buy a roller blind with your own design, and I thought it was too expensive buy a suitable roller blind just to disassemble it, especially since I still had a chain from an old roller blind.

So I used Sketchup to reconstruct the mechanism. To explain that in detail takes too long here, but I wil happily make a Sketchup Tutorial if you want me to. Here are the files:

Now I have printed the designed parts with my 3D printer. This will take a while, of course.  By the way, I have a very inexpensive 3D printer, but it does the job very well:

CTC 3D printer at*
or at*
or at*

I trimmed a broom stick with a diameter of 24mm to the correct length. Continue reading 3D Printed Roller Blind?

DIY camera dolly for time lapses – quick, easy, and dirt cheap!

Have you ever watched snow melt? Or snails racing? Or grass growing?
Modern cameras usually have a time-lapse function, which allows actions that take hours to be compressed into a few seconds. But how do you get a smooth camera movement over this long time?
With a motorized dolly. And where do you get one? Build it yourself. It’s not difficult, it’s fast, and its ridiculously cheap. I’ll show you how I did it.
We need some kind of base plate first. I still had this sawn off end of a shelf lying around.  I ordered most of the other components directly from Aliexpress in China. It takes forever for the parts to arrive, but everything is incredibly cheap. We need a motor controller, a very slow running motor and three furniture castors. I bought them locally and together they are the most expensive part in this project. Also a battery holder for eight AA-batteries. 8 times 1,5v results in 12V. In the description I will give you links to the parts.
This is the full list:

3 rpm 12v motor (the slower one): € 2,81*

1-channel relay module (for motor only): € 0,44*
2-channel relay module (for shutter and motor): € 0,83*
8-channel relay module (the one I used): € 3,13*
Arduino Uno: € 2,69*
Motor controller: € 1,19*
Battery holder: € 1,12*
Caster wheels (8 pcs): € 4,51*
Also used in this video:
bendy Octopus tripod: € 1,47*
for the timelapse dolly we need a slow geared motor, dc motor controller, battery box, furniture casters as wheels
The axle of one of the three furniture castors is drilled out. I’ll put the wheel on the motor for a trial. The motor gets connected to the controller. I first had to figure out what goes where, because everything is labeled in Chinese. in this case the motor connectors are left and the input voltage right.

Continue reading DIY camera dolly for time lapses – quick, easy, and dirt cheap!

How to interact with yourself on video

You want to double your talent? Appear twice in the same shot? Interact with yourself, like Casey Neistat? It is not hard, but it is not that easy either!

Casey Neistat has recently made a video, where he talks to his bearded self. Since I run a dual language YouTube channel, I thought I could steal this idea to talk to myself both in german and in english. However, I made a number of rookie mistakes. If You want to try something like this yourself, there are some points you should pay attention to.

Tip No. 1: Get the camera settings right!

We are going to combine two separate shots into one. We should not let the camera decide anything on it’s own, so we set everything to manual. We turn off the autofocus, so that it won’t start twisting the lens in one half of the picture. And we also set aperture and shutter speed to manual so that the automatic won’t start adjusting the brightness in one half. Both happened in my video.

Continue reading How to interact with yourself on video

Welcome to Fluxing!


My real name is Florian, but ever since I have been working with the german medieval rock band Saltatio Mortis many people call me Flux.

I like to build things. In many cases I just intend to get something done with as little effort as possible. But then my perfectionism kicks in and I spend endless hours on totally unimportant details. Or I start out with pretty ambitious plans, and at the end i lose my patience or I run out of time, and then I just hot glue everything, just to get it done. In short, I have a totally chaotic working style. And I like”hardware hacking” – using things differently than intended. All that is what I now call “fluxing”. And that is what my blog and YouTube channel will be about.

I have some very interesting projects coming up. I don’t want to tell too much just yet, but here are a few hints:

  • A high end gas barbecue for about 35,-€
  • A successor for my Macbook Pro: Portable, but much more powerful. And self made!
  • A slow moving camera dolly for time lapses
  • How do you film yourself twice at the same time?

For every blog post there will be a video on YouTube (or the other way around). I will try to show everything as detailed as possible to give you the chance to try it yourselves. But I will also show you you all my (many!) mistakes, so you don’t have to make them yourselves.

All blog posts and videos will be available in german and english language. In the top menu, you can switch languages in the top menu. And every video will contain a link in the top right corner to the other language.

I hope I can help you out with your own projects or inspire you to start new ones. But I am also eager to hear your advice, ideas, and criticism in the comments!
And I hope we all will have lots of fun!